Cherry blossoms, sushi, geisha girls, Mount Fuji – the not-to-be-missed icons when visiting Japan. All indeed worth seeing (though Fuji eluded us), but the unexpected experiences are what remain in the mind long after a visit to Japan.

Our itinerary began and ended in Tokyo and included four days in Kyoto. We travelled everywhere by train, on a Japan Rail pass, a bargain and a great convenience. The overseas visitor must purchase this abroad. The rail service lives up to its reputation.

Trains arrive and depart on the dot, spotlessly clean. The main line bullet trains are awesome, with comfortable reclining plane seats, reaching speeds that rival air travel. The branch line trains are slower, allowing you to view the passing scenery. Within the cities we used bus, tram or taxi.

As we moved from place to place, we took advantage of the efficient luggage forwarding service, which for a small fee will transport your bag to your next hotel, leaving you free to break your journey and explore places of interest en route.

Travelling independently, not in a group, with no knowledge of Japanese, my friend and I nevertheless managed to get around without much difficulty. The basic infrastructure of public transport and accommodation is often well above Western standards.

The Japanese are obsessed with cleanliness, wearing face masks against air pollution, providing moist warm towels at every eating place. Plumbing is impeccable and tap water everywhere is drinkable.

Where else would you find the computerized toilet-cum-bidet, with controls for warming the seat? No litter. In the towns the waiter or taxi driver usually knows a few words of English, but good speakers are few and far between. Signs in English can be found in the main centers but not in outlying areas.